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Advanced Pattern Making Techniques: Pattern Grading

March 6, 2022 by Margaret Leave a Comment

Practical pattern grading techniques for the home sewist. Finally, pattern grading made easy!

Pattern grading doesn't have to be hard! But, have you been led to believe that it's only for industry professionals or that you need some fancy software or elite knowledge to grade sewing patterns? I'm here to tell you that you can grade patterns at home easily!

What is pattern grading?

Pattern grading, most simply put, is the proportional increase or decrease in the size of a pattern. The purpose of grading is to fit a range of body types and sizes from one base pattern style. Each pattern piece is methodically increased or decreased to create a new size while keeping the original base pattern's intended fit, shaping, and proportion.

Pattern grading should not be confused with pattern alterations. Alterations are the process of making a pattern fit the nuances of an individual body. In contrast, grading is creating a range of new sizes, or a size run.

Important to note: It is important to note that a pattern is not uniformly graded, meaning…the increase and decrease of all points do not uniformly grow or get smaller. The body doesn't change size in a uniform, even way. Just because my body gets wider doesn't mean it gets taller. Make sense? Basically, everything does not equally get larger or smaller because the body changes doesn't equally get larger or smaller. Keep reading for more details.

Commonly used pattern grading terminology

Grade – The 'grade' of a pattern is the incremental increase or decrease in a pattern size at a given cardinal point. For example, most commercial patterns will have a 2″ grade. This means that there is a 2″ difference between sizes.

Grading – The process of increasing or decreasing the dimensions of a base pattern style.

Cardinal Points – The points on a pattern where it either increases or decreases.

Base pattern – The original pattern created (usually the middle of the size run). This is an industry term. However, in the home setting…the base pattern would be whatever pattern you are working with. For example, in the ITS Insider Exclusive Library….there are certain patterns that are only offered in 1 size, a size 6. This would be your base pattern.

Trueing – is the process of smoothing and shaping angular and curved lines on a seam to create a nice transition. Trueing includes checking to make sure seam lengths match, corners are 90° angles where necessary, as well as folding darts to create proper seam pattern shape.

Size Run – The sizes included in a specific style. For example; small, medium, large, xl…or, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12.

Cut and Spread | Cut and Overlap – The process of manually grading a sewing pattern by cutting the pattern apart and increasing or decreasing its size.

Pattern Shifting – Manually grading by shifting a pattern back and forth to increase or decrease its size.

Pattern Grading Methods for the home sewist

Cut and Spread | Cut and Overlap

The cut and spread|overlap method is the most straightforward, accurate, and intuitive method you can use at home. Cut and spread or cut and overlap your pattern to create a new size. It is as simple as that! Of course, you'll need to determine the amount of growth for each cardinal point and where to draw your cut lines. But that is it!!! See, easy!

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