• Bloglovin
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • YouTube
  • Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Skip to footer
Let's Learn To Sew
  • Start Here
  • Sewing Basics
    • Sew Alongs
    • Pattern Making Basics
  • Online Workshops
    • Free Sewing Machine Boot Camp
    • Sewing 101
    • Sewing 101 For Kids
    • Serger 101
  • Sewing Patterns & Supplies
    • Resources
menu icon
go to homepage
search icon
Homepage link
  • Join Our Community
×

Advanced Pattern Making Techniques: Adding a dart to a dartless bodice

January 6, 2022 by Margaret Leave a Comment

Learn how to add a dart to a dartless bodice, in two ways! Plus, one of them can be used for a full bust adjustment!

So, you need to add a dart to a dartless bodice? Awesome, that means maybe you drafted your bodice block the easy way… Basically, you take your body measurements, plot your points, and connect the dots. Easy! Well, guess what!? Adding darts is pretty easy too! Let’s see how it’s done!

How to add a dart, two ways….

Just like anything else, there is always more than one right way to achieve something. The same goes for adding a dart to a dartless bodice. Let’s take a look at the two ways I use…

Adding a dart, the easy way

If you’ve drafted a bodice the easy way, it is equally as easy to add a dart! Don’t get too worried about everything being perfect! That will be your Achilles heel…You are always going to sew a muslin for fitting, so you’ll be able to make any necessary adjustments at that time!

Step 1 – Measure down from the HPS (high point of shoulder) and mark the bust point. Make sure to stay parallel to the grainline, or CF (center front).

Step 2 – Continue line through to the bottom of the pattern (waist), again staying parallel to the grainline or CF.

Step 3 – Decide how wide you want your dart to be. Divide that number in half. Add half the measurement to one side of the line at the bottom of the pattern (waist) and mark. Then, add the other half to the other side of the line and mark.

Step 4 – Draw in the dart legs

Step 5 – Take the full width of the dart and pivot open the side seam. Blend and true all your seams.

You can do this one of two ways. First, simply measure and redraw the line using your clear plastic ruler. Or, cut along the side seam from the waist to the underarm and pivot the seam open. 

Once you’ve completed adding the dart to the dartless bodice, you can always pivot this dart anywhere on the bodice by using dart manipulation! Cool, huh!?

The method used in this video can be used for a full bust adjustment. Keep in mind, the bodice patterns used in both techniques discussed in this article… usea bodice sloper. That means, it has no seam allowance and no wearing ease. They are not finished garment patterns.

Also, when performing the method discussed in the video, you will add fullness to the bust. This technique should only be used if you need more fullness in the bust.

Related Posts:

  • Advanced Pattern Making Techniques: Pattern Grading
    Advanced Pattern Making Techniques: Pattern Grading
  • Pattern Making Foundation: Dart Manipulation and Pivot Points
    Pattern Making Foundation: Dart Manipulation and Pivot…
  • Pattern Making Foundation: Dart Manipulation and Pivot Points
    Pattern Making Foundation: Dart Manipulation and Pivot…
  • How to Sew a Dart Quickly and Easily
    How to Sew a Dart Quickly and Easily

More recipes you may enjoy

  • Iron over fabric.
    Top Tools for Professional Pressing
  • young girl at a sewing machine learning how to sew.
    Online Sewing Course for Kids
  • stitch witchery
    How to use Double-sided Fusible Tape
  • How to Join and Pattern Match Fabric.
    How to Join and Pattern Match Fabric

Reader Interactions

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Primary Sidebar

Recent Posts

  • Top Tools for Professional Pressing
  • Online Sewing Course for Kids
  • How to use Double-sided Fusible Tape
  • How to Join and Pattern Match Fabric
  • How to Sew a Christmas Stocking

Footer

  • Bloglovin
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • YouTube
  • About Me
  • Frequently Asked Questions
  • Affiliate Program
  • Copyright, Disclaimer, and Disclosure
  • Privacy Policy: Copyright, Disclaimer, and Disclosure

© 2023 Let's Learn to Sew· Log in