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Pattern Making Foundation: Dart Manipulation and Pivot Points

March 12, 2020 by Margaret Leave a Comment

When it comes to creating clothes that fit well understanding dart manipulation and pivot points is important. Dart manipulation allows the designer to transform the fit and style of a garment. Once you are comfortable with manipulating darts and using pivot points many of the fitting problems you once had will disappear.

What is Dart Manipulation

Dart manipulation is the act of transferring a dart to a new position within a pattern piece, to provide the same amount of suppression and shaping.

What are Pivot Points

Pivot points are designated points on a pattern, often the bust point, where the pattern is pivoted from. This allows the pattern piece to change shape but does not alter the fit.

Standard Dart Positions

Dart Manipulation and Pivot Points

Darts can be moved horizontally but there are some limits to it. In general, darts can be moved ¾" (2cm) horizontally in either direction with very little issue. Any more than that and the garment may begin to take on a flatter appearance and start to crease or pull at the side seams.

Suppression should be spread evenly around a garment so that a fully three-dimensional garment is achieved.

  1. Mark the new dart position and cut along this line.
  2. Pivot the release (gray) section to close the original bust dart position.
  3. Shorten dart apex

Shoulder to Armscye

  1. Mark the new dart position and cut along this line.
  2. Pivot the release (gray) section to close the original bust dart position.
  3. Shorten dart apex

Shoulder to Neckline

  1. Mark the new dart position and cut along this line.
  2. Pivot the release (gray) section to close the original bust dart position.
  3. Shorten dart apex

If you're interested in diving even deeper the Palmer Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting: Sew Great Clothes for Every Body book is great!

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More Pattern Making Basics

  • How-to Fit With Your Sloper
  • Using Frixion Pens in Sewing and Pattern Making
  • Advanced Pattern Making Techniques: Pattern Grading
  • A Sloper Is Your Secret Weapon to Making Any Sewing Pattern Fit

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