When it comes to creating clothes that fit well understanding dart manipulation and pivot points is important. Dart manipulation allows the designer to transform the fit and style of a garment. Once you are comfortable with manipulating darts and using pivot points many of the fitting problems you once had will disappear.
What is Dart Manipulation
Dart manipulation is the act of transferring a dart to a new position within a pattern piece, to provide the same amount of suppression and shaping.
What are Pivot Points
Pivot points are designated points on a pattern, often the bust point, where the pattern is pivoted from. This allows the pattern piece to change shape but does not alter the fit.
Standard Dart Positions
Dart Manipulation and Pivot Points
Darts can be moved horizontally but there are some limits to it. In general, darts can be moved 3/4″ (2cm) horizontally in either direction with very little issue. Any more than that and the garment may begin to take on a flatter appearance and start to crease or pull at the side seams.
Suppression should be spread evenly around a garment so that a fully three-dimensional garment is achieved.
- Mark the new dart position and cut along this line.
- Pivot the release (gray) section to close the original bust dart position.
- Shorten dart apex
Shoulder to Armscye
- Mark the new dart position and cut along this line.
- Pivot the release (gray) section to close the original bust dart position.
- Shorten dart apex
Shoulder to Neckline
- Mark the new dart position and cut along this line.
- Pivot the release (gray) section to close the original bust dart position.
- Shorten dart apex
If you’re interested in diving even deeper the Palmer Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting: Sew Great Clothes for Every Body book is great!
