Directional vs Non-Directional Fabric: How to Tell the Difference

Before you cut into a new piece of fabric, it’s worth asking one quick question: does this fabric have an up and a down?

Directional fabric has a clear top and bottom. It looks different upside down because of its print or its surface (a nap, pile or sheen). Non-directional fabric looks the same whichever way you turn it. The difference changes how you lay out your pattern, how much fabric you buy, and whether your finished project looks right.

Directional vs non-directional fabric guide for sewists.

What Is Directional Fabric?

Directional fabric, also called one-way fabric, has a design or surface that only looks right in one direction. If you cut one pattern piece upside down, it will stand out in the finished project. Think of cats standing on their heads on one sleeve, or a corduroy pant leg that looks like a different color from the other.

Fabric becomes directional in two ways:

The print has an “up.” One-way prints have motifs that all face the same way, like animals, trees, houses or lettering.
The surface has a nap. Fabrics with a pile or brushed surface, like velvet, corduroy, velour and faux fur, reflect light differently depending on which way the fibers lie. Satin and sateen can do the same thing with their sheen.

There’s an in-between too. Two-way prints look right both up and down, but not sideways. Uneven stripes and uneven plaids, where the pattern doesn’t mirror itself, also need to be cut in one direction so they match at the seams.

Examples of directional fabric

One-way prints: animals, people, buildings, landscapes, lettering
Uneven stripes and uneven plaids
One-sided geometric patterns, like some chevrons
Napped and pile fabrics: velvet, corduroy, velour, faux fur, suede cloth
Shiny fabrics: satin, sateen and some taffetas

What Is Non-Directional Fabric?

Non-directional fabric, sometimes called multi-directional or tossed, looks the same whether you turn it up, down or sideways. You can place pattern pieces in any direction, so you can fit them closer together and use less fabric.

Examples of non-directional fabric

Solid colors without a nap or sheen, like quilting cotton, broadcloth and linen
Polka dots, gingham and even plaids
Tossed or scattered prints, where motifs face every direction
All-over florals without a clear “up”
Abstract and brushstroke prints

This cute St. Patrick’s Day/Spring fabric with shamrocks and sprinkles by Teal Door Designs is a great example of non-directional fabric.

How to Tell If Your Fabric Is Directional

Look at the print. Do the motifs all face one way? Do any people, animals or words stand upright? If so, it’s a one-way print.
Do the turn test. Fold one corner of the fabric back on itself so you can see a section upside down next to a section right side up. If they look different, treat the fabric as directional.
Feel the surface. Run your hand along the length of the fabric in both directions. If it feels smoother one way and rougher the other, it has a nap.
Check it in the light. Hold it up near a window. If the color looks lighter from one direction and deeper from the other, cut it as directional.
Read the pattern envelope. If the yardage chart says “with nap,” use that amount and layout for any directional fabric.

Tossed shamrock print fabric, an example of non-directional fabric.

Directional vs Non-Directional Fabric at a Glance

	Directional	Non-directional
Looks the same upside down?	No	Yes
Examples	One-way prints, velvet, corduroy, satin, uneven stripes	Solids, polka dots, tossed prints, gingham
Pattern layout	“With nap”: every piece faces the same way	“Without nap”: pieces can face any way
Fabric needed	Usually more	Usually less
Beginner-friendly?	Takes more planning	Yes, very forgiving

Tips for Cutting and Sewing Each Type

Directional fabrics

Pay close attention to the pattern’s cutting layout, and use the “with nap” layout.
Mark the “up” direction with an arrow on the selvage or wrong side, using fabric chalk.
Lay every pattern piece so its top points the same way, including facings, pockets and collars.
Cut in a single layer when you need to center a large motif or match stripes, and mirror-image the pieces for symmetrical designs.
For velvet and corduroy, choose one direction for the pile and stick with it. Many sewists cut with the pile running up for the richest color.
Match stripes and plaids at the seams. My guide to joining and pattern matching fabric walks you through it.
Buy a little extra. Directional layouts leave more scraps.

Non-directional fabrics

Enjoy the freedom to place pieces in any direction.
Nest pieces closely and rotate them to save fabric.
Use the scraps for smaller pieces or future projects.
Experiment with playful placement for unique effects.

Whichever type you have, check the grainline arrows on your pattern before you cut. Here’s what you need to know about grainlines, marking and cutting fabric.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is corduroy directional?

Yes. Corduroy has a pile, so it looks lighter from one direction and darker from the other. Cut every piece with the pile running the same way, or the panels won’t match. See how to sew corduroy for more.

Is velvet directional?

Yes. Velvet has a dense pile that changes color with direction, so treat it as directional. My velvet sewing guide covers cutting and pressing.

What does “with nap” mean on a sewing pattern?

“With nap” means every pattern piece must point the same direction. Pattern envelopes list separate “with nap” yardage and cutting layouts. Use them for any directional fabric, not just napped ones.

Do I need more fabric for directional prints?

Usually, yes. Every piece has to face the same way, so the pieces don’t nest as tightly. Use the “with nap” yardage on your pattern envelope.

Are stripes directional?

It depends. Even stripes look the same upside down, so you can usually cut them either way. Uneven stripes have a pattern that doesn’t mirror itself, so cut them in one direction to keep them matching.

What’s the easiest fabric for beginners?

A non-directional print or solid, like quilting cotton. It’s forgiving to cut and hides small mistakes.

Learn More About Fabric

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Directional vs Non-Directional Fabric: What Sewists Need to Know