When it comes to sewing clothes that actually fit, most sewists quickly realize that standard patterns rarely fit every body right out of the envelope. Why? Because commercial sewing patterns are based on average body measurements and proportions, and let’s be honest, not many of us are truly “average.”
Your unique body proportions can have a huge impact on how a garment fits, even if your measurements match the pattern size. Understanding your own proportions is the first step to confidently adjusting patterns for a custom fit. Let’s break it down.
Height Isn’t Everything: Vertical Proportions Matter
Two people can be the same height, but one may have a longer torso and shorter legs, while the other is the opposite. This affects where waistlines, hemlines, and darts fall on your body. If a pattern assumes the waist hits 15” down from the nape of your neck, but your waist is lower, you’ll need to lengthen the bodice.
Fixes to consider:
- Lengthen or shorten lines on bodice, skirt, or pant pieces.
- Measure from shoulder to waist and compare with the pattern.
Bust, Waist, and Hips: Not Just Circumference
Pattern sizes are based on full bust, waist, and hip measurements, but these measurements' shape and distribution also matter. A high bust, low hips, or a small waist with a full bust can change how a garment sits and behaves.
Fixes to consider:
- Full bust adjustment (FBA) or small bust adjustment (SBA).
- Swayback or full tummy adjustments for better waistline placement.
Shoulder Width and Slope
Shoulder shape often gets overlooked, but it significantly affects sleeve fit and neckline comfort. If you have narrow or broad shoulders—or a more sloped or square shoulder line, your garments may gape, pull, or shift uncomfortably.
Fixes to consider:
- Adjust shoulder seams to match your natural shoulder line.
- Redraft armholes or sleeves to avoid tightness or gaping.
Rise and Crotch Curve for Pants
Pants can be one of the most frustrating garments to fit because they rely so heavily on pelvic proportions. If your torso is long or short between your waist and crotch, or you carry more volume in the front or back, you’ll need to tweak the rise or crotch curve.
Fixes to consider:
- Adjust front/back rise separately.
- Use a flexible ruler to map your personal crotch curve.
Arm Length and Girth
If you’ve ever had sleeves that are too short or too tight around the bicep, you’re not alone. Arm length and circumference vary a lot and aren’t always tied to the pattern size.
Fixes to consider:
- Add length to sleeves at designated lines.
- Slash and spread sleeve patterns for fuller biceps.
Tips for Getting the Fit Just Right
- Take thorough body measurements, including vertical distances.
- Compare your proportions to the pattern’s measurement chart, not just the size chart.
- Make a muslin (test garment) before cutting into your final fabric.
- Don’t be afraid to blend sizes between bust, waist, and hips.
- Keep notes on what adjustments you tend to make; patterns often need the same tweaks.
Final Thoughts
Sewing allows you to dress your unique body, rather than forcing it into a mold. The more you learn about your own proportions, the more confident and skilled you’ll become at modifying patterns to fit you, not the other way around.
So grab that measuring tape and embrace the beauty of custom sewing, it’s worth the effort!
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