Why You Need to Alter Commercial Patterns
Commercial patterns are based on standard measurements, but very few people fit those measurements exactly. That's why despite sewing your own wardrobe you sometimes end up with a garment that doesn't fit the way you expect. It is usually necessary to make small alterations to improve the fit. Let me show you how to Alter a Skirt Pattern for a Perfect Fit.
Altering a Skirt
A straight skirt is probably the easiest garment to fit because it's the simplest garment to understand conceptually. Remember to add or subtract by the same amount on the front and back pieces.
Measuring Your Clothes for a Perfect Fit
Taking accurate body measurements is one of the keys to a great fit. Whether you choose to use a commercial pattern or draft it from measurements, having accurate measurements is critical to the success of your final garment. You can learn how in our article How to Take Accurate Body Measurements For Sewing.
Making Sense of Pattern Grading
When you talk to someone who has sewn for a long time or done alterations you are bound to hear about "pattern grading." It's nothing hard or overly technical. It simply means using a specific system of measurements to increase or decrease the pattern size. It's how clothing manufacturers can make the same garment in different sizes and is something you can do as well at home.
Preparing the Pattern
Once you've taken the proper measurements you can choose the correct size on for the pattern. Carefully cut all the pattern pieces that correspond to the skirt view you want to make. The pattern pieces will need to be ironed once you have cut all of them out.
Common Skirt Alterations
These are the most common alterations you may find yourself having to make. The processes are the same rather it's a commercial pattern from the fabric store, a PDF pattern you've downloaded, or one you've drafted yourself.
Lengthening a Skirt
- Locate the printed "shorten or lengthen line on the pattern and cut along it.
- Tape or glue some paper to one side of the pattern. With a pencil and ruler, measure the amount to be added and extend the grain line onto the new paper.
- Align the other half of the skirt pattern to the extended grainline and tape it into position.
- Straighten out and redraw the pattern edges with a pencil and ruler.
- Be sure to alter both the front and back pattern pieces.
Shortening a Skirt
- Locate the printed "shorten or lengthen line on the pattern and measure from it the amount to be altered.
- At the measured amount draw a parallel pencil line with a ruler.
- Crease the pattern along the printed line.
- Fold down to the measured pencil line and secure the pattern with tape.
Decreasing a Skirt Waist
When a skirt fits on the hips and a small alteration is needed to adjust the waist (no more than ¾"), this method is quick and easy to do.
- Divide the total amount needed to change the waist by four.
- To create a smooth fit, split the number in half and share equally between the side seam and the dart.
- Starting with the front skirt, split the measurement again; measure outward, increasing the dart on either side at the waistline.
- Blend back into the dart point.
- Measure the amount to be reduced at the front waist side seam.
- With a skirt curve or French curve, blend the line back into the side seam.
- Repeat this method, using the same measurements, on the back of the skirt. When both the front and back waist have been altered, re-cut the pattern on the new lines you made.
Increasing a Skirt Waist
- Divide the total amount needed to change the waist by four.
- To create a smooth fit, split the number in half and share equally between the side seam and the dart.
- Starting with the front skirt, split the measurement again; measure inward, decreasing the dart on either side at the waistline.
- Blend back into the dart point.
- You will need to add paper to the side seams.
- Measure the amount to be added to the waist side seam.
- Blend it back into the hip.
- Cut away the excess paper
- Repeat for the back section of the skirt
Increasing at the Hip
This is the easiest way to increase at the hips if the increase is not more than ¾".
- Divide the total amount needed to change the waist by four.
- Blend from the waistline to the new hip measurement and continue down to the hem.
- Trim away the excess skirt sizes.
Now you know how to alter a skirt pattern for a perfect fit.
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