This is it, the hem is all we have left in our skirt series! Hemming a pencil skirt is just like hemming anything else. You measure, press, and then stitch it down. Ready? Let's finish this up and move on to our next wardrobe staple!
The first thing you want to do is to finish the raw edge of the fabric. You have several options that I cover in this post on How To Finish Raw Edges on Sewing Seams. They include trimming the edges with pinking shears, Serging around the edge with your serger or a zig-zag stitch or overcast stitch around the edge. If you leave the edge of the fabric unfinished you will notice the fabric will fray over time with each washing and drying. Finishing your edges takes just a bit of time and really does give your garment a more professionally finished look.
Measuring and Pressing Under the Hem
If you don't have an EZY hem use your seam gauge to ensure you have an even hem.
The hem can be finished by hand if you desire. A blind hem would be the best choice if stitching by hand. I am not a fan of hand sewing but I know many people prefer it for hems.
Machine sewing is my by far my preferred method for just about any stitch. Most sewing machines now come with a variety of built-in stitches and specialty feet to make sewing just about anything easier.
Folded Edge Hem
This is probably the simplest type of hem and the one used for more casual garments or where it won’t matter if the stitching line shows. Most of the garments I make are casual so I don’t mind that if someone got very close and examined my hem they would be able to see the stitching on the hemline.
- As described above fold the hem over ½", press and then fold over again ½". The fabric should be folded over from the right side to the wrong side.
- Set your machine for either a straight stitch or if desired a decorative stitch. Stitch as close to the top fold as you can. Some presser feet have guides to make this easier. If you don’t have one you can use the outer edge of your all-purpose foot.
- Make sure you backstitch at the beginning and end.
- Trim the threads and give the hem a quick press.
With a double-fold or folded edge hem, the bobbin stitches show on the outside of the skirt. You will want to choose the bobbin thread accordingly.
If you have questions about any of the steps let me know in the comments section or over in the private Facebook group.
As we end this series I want to give a big thanks to all the ladies that have been following along and giving me feedback! I appreciate it so much. Also, to those that are testing the pencil skirt pattern we are getting ready to release! Thant's right, for those that have no desire to draft a skirt next week our Pencil Skirt pattern, will available to purchase. Best of all you'll have a set of videos to walk you through step-by-step as you sew. I've had a group of ladies, in varies sizes testing this pattern to help ensure a great fit.