Pattern Making Foundation: Dart Manipulation and Pivot Points

Pattern Making Foundation: Dart Manipulation and Pivot Points

Dart manipulation is the act of transferring a dart to a new position within a pattern piece, to provide the same amount of suppression and shaping.

Standard Dart Positions

Dart Manipulation and Pivot Points

Darts can be moved horizontally but there are some limits to it. In general, darts can be moved ¾" (2cm) horizontally in either direction with very little issue. Any more than that and the garment may begin to take on a flatter appearance and start to crease or pull at the side seams.

Suppression should be spread evenly around a garment so that a fully three-dimensional garment is achieved.

1. Mark new dart position and cut along this line.
2. Pivot the release (gray) section to close the original bust dart position.
3. Shorten dart apex

Shoulder to Armscye

1. Mark new dart position and cut along this line.
2. Pivot the release (gray) section to close the original bust dart position.
3. Shorten dart apex

Shoulder to Neckline

1. Mark new dart position and cut along this line.
2. Pivot the release (gray) section to close the original bust dart position.
3. Shorten dart apex

For more post like this check out the Pattern Making Foundation Series. If you're interested in diving even deeper the Palmer Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting: Sew Great Clothes for Every Body book is great!